The Lost Paradise of Panamá

Heading west from the Santa Clara—Farallón—Rio Hato area, the Interamericana turns northwest away from the ocean. The next major town is Penonomé. I like saying that name. Pay-no-no-MAY. Sometimes, just to get a reaction from my wife’s family, I’ll say, “Pay-no-no-no-MAY” as fast as I can. Centuries ago, Penonomé was the capital, after Panama Viejo was sacked and burned by the pirate, Henry Morgan.

Long before now you’ll have noticed the hats the men wear, typically a white and black color, with the front brim flipped up. This is one of many areas where you’ll find this traditional headgear for sale. There are other places away from the Interamericana and on the Azuero Peninsula. The hats are tightly woven from plant fibers. The tighter—the better. My father-in-law, Bilo, will carefully examine the braids before deciding on a new one. A well-made sombrero will cost $20-40. They’re a little stiff when first worn, and need to be broken in.

After Penonomé, the highway angles southwest toward the Peninsula. You’ll pass through Natá, (where one of the oldest churches in the Americas is still in use), Aguadulce, and Divisa. If you want to go to the Highlands and Costa Rica, continue west. If you want to visit the heart of Panama where they make the traditional hats, the national dress, (la pollera for women, el montuño for men), and listen to the unique musica typica, then hang a left and head toward Chitré.  

Farther down the peninsula is Las Tablas, where my wife Elia was born, and near the tip is Pedasí. As in any country, there are small villages that are so far off the natural lines of drift that most people will never see them.

Purio is one of these villages. It might as well be Brigadoon…

The main road splits between Pocrí and Pedasí, and somewhere along the way you may find Purio. There’s a woman with long, salt and pepper colored hair, who makes bread. In Spanish, it’s called pan. There’s nothing like freshly-baked pan from an earth oven as the sun rises.

…along with a good cup of coffee.