The Lost Paradise of Panamá

Long before Humankind made its first rope bridge, there were natural bridges. The Isthmus itself is a bridge, connecting the Americas. The Canal, too, is a bridge–a water bridge, connecting two oceans. It truly is the crossroads of the world. I’ve always been fascinated with bridges, and connecting to something that was once before inaccessible.

The most well-known bridge in Panama is the Bridge of the Americas near the Pacific entrance to the canal. It was also once known as the Thatcher-Ferry Bridge, replacing the Thatcher Ferry in 1962. This large arch bridge looms over the canal, and was the only permanent bridge connecting North and South America until 2004, when the Centennial Bridge was made. I never used to fear crossing the bridge until one time a US Army deuce-and-a-half smashed through the railing on the west side, plummeting into the mud below and killing seventeen GI’s. The views are beautiful, with the canal on one side, and the Pacific Ocean on the other. But every time I cross over, I do so with a little trepidation.

The Centennial Bridge was named after Panama’s centennial of 2003, one hundred years of liberation from Colombia. It’s a cable design bridge, spanning the Gaillard Cut near the Pedro Miguel Locks. I first drove across it in February 2005 around 1:00 am, after leaving Tocumen International Airport on my way to Chapala on the other side of Arraijan. I was hoping there was a walkway like on the Bridge of the Americas, but I never have seen one. As you drive across, especially at night with a ship in the canal, the sights are amazing.

There have always been other bridges across the canal, but these are swing bridges. There’s one at the Miraflores Locks, and one on the Atlantic side at the Gatun Locks. An interesting place not far from Colon is the town of Gatun. It’s a small village, and you’ll be able to see more of the canal and view the mules pulling ships through. You’ll need to wait for any passing ships, and then for the swing bridge to connect. They use a regular red and green stop light for traffic control. Farther down the road is the old Jungle Operations Training Center at what was formerly known as Fort Sherman. There is a road that takes you to an Atlantic side fortress called Fort San Lorenzo. It’s an excellent place to spend the day and walk among the many ruins and large plaza.

There are of course, many other bridges of all shapes and sizes throughout the Republic of Panama.