The Lost Paradise of Panamá

Once you travel south from El Valle to the Las Uvas turnoff, and the Interamericana Highway, you’ll begin to see more of the Pacific Ocean to your left. On your right, you’ll see farmland and cattle ranches. If traveling during the dry season, about mid-December through April, you may see some of the fields on fire as the locals burn off dead grass.

First, you’ll come to Santa Clara Beach, one of my favorites. It’s fairly quiet, and there are cabañas you can rent. One good place to spend a few days is at Las Sirenas. You have access to a wide, sandy beach with a calm surf, gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, a barbeque, and a bit of privacy.

If staying a few days, bring food. There are no on-site restaurants. Or, go to nearby Rio Hato and pick up Chiriqui-grown chicken to BBQ, carbón and oil to start the fire, and some rum.

The beach is fantastic, but as with any unfamiliar surrounding, be cautious. Devil rays lurk in the shallow waters. As the tide rises, it covers plant life that will prick your unprotected feet. Plus, there’s a variety of other stingy thingies. 

It’s a good idea to wear sandals while waltzing down the playa. In the early morning, you’ll see dogs roaming, searching for anything edible that washed ashore overnight. For the most part, they’ll leave you alone.

Many beautiful homes stand empty, void of any life except for the occasional visit or party. Former Generals Omar Torrijos and Manuel Noriega had residences here. They’d fly in by small plane or helicopter to the Rio Hato airstrip, visible from the Interamericana. It’s also where, in December 1989, US Army Rangers parachuted in and attacked a Panama Defense Force, or PDF unit, and raided Noriega’s house. Most people don’t see it from the highway because it’s overgrown, but the barracks are still there. And down near the beach and in ruins–Noriega’s old mansion.

On October 3, 1989, Panama’s Special Forces snatched Noriega and handcuffed him to a urinal at the Comandancia in Panama City, and only six-hundred meters as the crow flies from the Southern Command Headquarters on Quarry Heights. The captors made a fatal mistake and allowed Little Tony to make a phone call—to his mistress—who alerted Battalion 2000 outside of Panama City. During the ensuing gunfight, Noriega was rescued. His captors did not fare well. They were tortured and executed.

In stark contrast to this piece of history is the beach next to Santa Clara at Farallón, and the world famous Royal Decameron Resort. My wife’s cousin owns a small cabin nearby, and one day we stopped in to see the resort. It’s beautiful, and all inclusive. That is, no need to carry your wallet or purse. It’s definitely not private, especially in the dry season. You’ll meet all kinds of people. Not just from the Americas, but Europe, just strolling along the packed beach. Unfortunately, many of these tourists only see this part of Panama and don’t experience the real culture.

And…

Most visitors don’t realize that within shouting distance is the former beach house of a notorious dictator. A place where Panama’s Boogey Man, General Manuel Antonio Noriega, once wined and dined VIP’s from around the world. That chapter is now closed. Panama has moved forward and is enjoying a more peaceful—and prosperous time.