Atlantic waves—ancient waters that predate the dinosaurs, push up against modern concrete piers with names like Cristóbal and Colón. Unlike other cities in the Americas, here, the Italian born Chris Colombo, who explored these shores for Spain, is a rock star. After years of searching, one of his many ships may have been discovered off the sandy coast.
Panama is the literal crossroads to the world. It’s not unusual to stroll down a timeless cobblestone street past a Catholic church, a Jewish synagogue, or farther on, hear the call to prayer from a tall, slender minaret outside a Mosque.
Many foreigners have brought their vision of the world to Panama thinking it mirrored reality. They learned the hard way that the real truth, and only truth, is that Panama can be a jungle of mirrors.
Panama has had a long history with the US from the early days of the canal, and a large military presence built over the years through two Great Wars, and a long Cold War. When they pulled out, Panama was left with empty buildings they didn’t know what to do with. At first, they remained still and the jungle crept in. But over the years, they’ve been able to attract new businesses, as well as retirees, and they have literally transformed the old Canal Zone. There is a town at the edge of Panama City known as Balboa. It’s made up of mainly Western style buildings. However, with some added construction, pastel painting and landscaping, many of these structures have been wonderfully absorbed back into the Panamanian culture. One fantastic addition not too far from Balboa is at the old Albrook Air Station. The government built a multi-million dollar National Terminal for all ground travel within the Republic. What’s great about this is now there is one central location for traveling to the interior.
Previously, the smaller terminal just didn’t have enough room, and many of the buses were in very poor condition. Depending on where you were going, you had to walk down the streets of Panama City and search for locations where small vans left for the interior. The terminal is now a main focal point for your travels outside of Panama City.
The canal is a must see. It’s an engineering miracle to think that a century ago, men and machine were able to dig a big ditch across a country, link two oceans, and install three sets of locks—and the giant metal doors are still being used to this day. Franz, a Swiss friend of mine, and a door engineer, was a part of the former Panama Canal Commission. He told me how each original door is made up of several steel panels that are riveted into place. At two year intervals, because of heat and water pressure, Franz and his crew would give every door in every lock a makeover. They’d remove each warped steel panel and pound it back into shape. Imagine for a moment listening to Franz describe his work week, and the dismantling and then rebuilding of the canal doors…
And then imagine walking alone for several blocks along Avenida de Balboa and staring out to sea as the sun set. Watching the large cargo ships queuing for their transit of the most famous waterway, their running lights glimmering off of the dark waters. And knowing that for a few hours late at night, while most people in the Western Hemisphere slept, the canal that connects North and South America is separated, and then reconnected by an old Swiss immigrant and his band of faithful laborers.
One of my favorite ways to see the canal is to go to the National Terminal and purchase a ticket to Gamboa. Gamboa is about halfway across Panama, and you’ll see some excellent jungle scenery and be able to mingle with the locals. Gamboa is a small town, once filled with canal workers. It gives you an excellent view of the canal, dredging equipment, and the Pedro Miguel locks are nearby. If you want to get a bird’s eye view of the local flora and fauna, there are some hotels situated in the jungle itself.
The Pacific locks at Miraflores are the closest to Panama City. They also have an extensive museum, an observation platform, and a restaurant. I highly recommend checking the locks at Pedro Miguel, and if possible, the often ignored Atlantic entrance at Gatun.
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