The Lost Paradise of Panamá

It was a strange couple of days on the other side of the Bridge of the Americas. Well, maybe not so strange since it was in Panama and one tries to get used to strange.  But even though you get used to seeing some pretty weird things, some days can stick out. Every day can be adventurous. You never know what you might see. And at the start of this day, I didn’t know it would begin with Ché, and within 48 hours also include Noriega and Bin Laden.

I was staying with friends in the Chapala area and running some errands, mainly between Arraijan and La Chorerra.  I decided to use the local buses known as diablos rojos. I waited at a nearby bus stop, and as the red devil rumbled to a crawl I swung myself aboard. Oftentimes a young entrepreneur gets on the bus to sell condoms (before and during carnaval), gum, drinks, food, or religion. They’ll ride for a few bus stops, tolerated by the driver.

On this morning it was all Che and religion. I wasn’t surprised to see something of Che Guevara, the former Argentine doctor and rebel who was killed in Bolivia. As legends go, he had passed through Panama, even Casco Viejo. He had eaten at the Coca Cola Café, which is still pretty much the same and still serving good food. 

The man was the last to come onboard, not needing a seat. He was ready to tell us what he thought we needed to hear; and we had no way out. He walked up and down the aisle, ranting about this and that, and why we should believe in the Bible. I had no doubt that he believed as many do in Central America that it’s bad luck—and bad manners—not  to listen to someone when they are preaching religion—no matter what belief it is.

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The Panama Canal was started by the French and completed by the United States. But the Canal would not have been possible without the labor of thousands of workers from around the world. Tragically, due to harsh working conditions, yellow fever and malaria, thousands lost their lives. Some say their ghosts still exist, roaming the halls of Gorgas Hospital on Ancon Hill, or in the maintenance tunnels under the Canal. The complete history of what some call the Eighth Wonder of the World can be seen in a museum at the Miraflores Locks.

The Miraflores Locks, or Pacific side locks, are the first locks when traveling south to north, or from the Pacific to the Atlantic. This might sound strange, but keep in mind that Panama is “S” shaped with Costa Rica to the west, and Colombia to the east. It’s also close to Panama City and Balboa. Any taxi driver knows how to get there. Just be sure to verify the fare before leaving.

The museum is filled with artifacts and exhibits from the early days of the French when Panama was still only a province of Colombia, to when the US took over operations. First-time visitors are amazed at just how big the Canal is, and the engineering feats that were needed to complete it nearly a century ago.

Along with the numerous displays is an outdoor observation deck overlooking the Miraflores Locks. From here you have a bird’s eye view of the lock, the mules (the cars that pull the ships through the locks) the Canal, and of course, the ships. If you get hungry, there’s an onsite restaurant.

Miraflores is the most visited, but there’s a lot more to the Canal. If you have time, it’s well worth a visit to the Pedro Miguel Locks near Gamboa, and then the Madden Dam. On the Atlantic side you’ll find the massive Gatun Locks.

View of the Canal from the observation deck

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Santa Catalina is a fishing village located southwest of Santiago. It’s on the Pacific, near Montijo Bay, which separates it from the Azuero Peninsula. Although improvements have been made over the years, it’s still a remote and simple place. Surfers discovered the waves around Santa Catalina years ago, and they still continue to come. It’s also a jumping off point for diving out around Isla Coiba, the former notorious penal colony. You can find a few low-cost places to stay and eat.

My daughter’s friend playing with the jaws of a shark

Lago Alajuela is located about halfway between Panama City and Colon. It was formerly known as Madden Lake. It’s an artificial lake formed by the Madden Dam on the Rio Chagres. It’s used as a reservoir for the canal, should extra water be needed. The other artificial lake, and more well known, is Gatun Lake. Lago Alajuela is near Vigia where my brother-in-law and his family live. The lake is a popular place for boating and fishing.

Relatives at Lago Alajuela

It’s been two years since I decided to jump in and start a blog, with the main theme being about Panamá. I felt then as I do now, that I knew and understood Panamá more than most; not as much as some. I’ve roamed its jungle, desert, and mountains. (Yes, Panama has a small desert-like region). I’ve traveled through its villages, towns and cities. I’ve navigated through some rough areas, although not without consequences. There’ve been more good times than bad. And through it all, guiding me along the way, have been the wonderful Panamanian people. Happy. Caring. Quick with a genuine smile.

There’s an ingredient in Panamanian society that I just can’t put my finger on, but without it, life wouldn’t be the same. It’s that ingredient that makes a soup good or excellent. It’s that smile that makes a painting just a painting, or a work-of-art. And it’s that ingredient that has intrigued me over the years. What is it?

The first anniversary of my Panablog was during my father-in-law’s funeral. He passed away at the age of eighty-eight. He knew the land, the sea, the weather–as well as he knew his children. In my mind, he was Panamá. He is greatly missed, and I think of him often.

I want to thank all of you who have stopped by to read a posting, view a picture, or leave a comment. As with all travel, it’s good to be a little cautious, a little skeptical, a little inquisitive, and follow your instinct in uncertain situations. But most of all–study your destination before you go. I hope that I’ve shed some light on traveling through the Isthmus.

Thank you.