The Lost Paradise of Panamá

It’s been two years since I decided to jump in and start a blog, with the main theme being about Panamá. I felt then as I do now, that I knew and understood Panamá more than most; not as much as some. I’ve roamed its jungle, desert, and mountains. (Yes, Panama has a small desert-like region). I’ve traveled through its villages, towns and cities. I’ve navigated through some rough areas, although not without consequences. There’ve been more good times than bad. And through it all, guiding me along the way, have been the wonderful Panamanian people. Happy. Caring. Quick with a genuine smile.

There’s an ingredient in Panamanian society that I just can’t put my finger on, but without it, life wouldn’t be the same. It’s that ingredient that makes a soup good or excellent. It’s that smile that makes a painting just a painting, or a work-of-art. And it’s that ingredient that has intrigued me over the years. What is it?

The first anniversary of my Panablog was during my father-in-law’s funeral. He passed away at the age of eighty-eight. He knew the land, the sea, the weather–as well as he knew his children. In my mind, he was Panamá. He is greatly missed, and I think of him often.

I want to thank all of you who have stopped by to read a posting, view a picture, or leave a comment. As with all travel, it’s good to be a little cautious, a little skeptical, a little inquisitive, and follow your instinct in uncertain situations. But most of all–study your destination before you go. I hope that I’ve shed some light on traveling through the Isthmus.

Thank you.

A good cup of coffee in Panamá can easily be taken for granted because it’s so prevalent. Whether it’s Cafe Tule in Santa Fé, or one of the numerous selections such as Cafe Ruiz available in the Volcán Barú region–you can’t go wrong. You don’t have to visit the Western Highlands to enjoy a good cup since many brands are readily available throughout the country. And if you really want to splurge, there are some brands that will cost what a night in a good hotel would. From the time the ripe cherries are picked, up until the coffee is ready for sale, extreme care and precision is taken at every step. The final product is a very fine, rich, dark powder. I’ve always been a little partial to Cafe Duran, in part because when I first lived in Panamá, it was next to a Cafe Duran warehouse. I could smell the sweet aroma every morning.

The next time you’re in Boquete to visit, or take a Spanish class at Habla Ya, plan a trek into the surrounding mountains. In town you can find a place to stay at one of the many hotels, like Isla Verde. There’s also a small selection of hostels. The dry season is the best time of year to climb the trails above Boquete and experience the wonderful vistas.

Isla Verde

Hostal Refugio del Rio

Hostal Boquete

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December in Panama is a very active time. It begins with Mother’s Day, December 8th. The Panama school year also ends in December, which coincides with the end of the rainy season and the beginning of less rainy days. Generally, by the middle to end of December, the heavy rains stop, at least on the Pacific side, until about mid-April. This is Panama’s summer where you can enjoy the outdoors more than when there are torrential downpours. There are a lot of colorful decorations in the cities, rural areas, and on the islands. This Christmas season is also the 20th anniversary of the invasion of Panama (December 20th, 1989), to remove General Manuel Noriega from power.

Holiday tree decorated with presents on Isla Taboga

Some homes might have Christmas trees, but in the rural areas you’re more likely to see small, handmade nativity scenes made from dirt, grass, and miniature figurines. Christmas is a time when the large, extended families share their food and drink. There’ll be plenty of traditional food made with rice, chicken, and plantains. There’ll also be a lot to drink. The nance berries are ripe, and many families make a very tasty juice known as chicha de nance. Another drink, Seco Herrerano, is clear liquor made from sugarcane. Locals might ask the bartender for nueve letras, referring to the nine letters that spell Herrerano.

Christmas in San Miguelito

While traveling in Panama you’ll see life-sized muñecas (dolls) outside of homes or on roads. Some are wonderfully creative and you can actually understand who the effigy represents. Typically, they are well- known people such as politicians. On New Year’s Eve, along with fireworks and drinking, the muñecas are burned, representing the end of the previous year.

After the New Year celebrations finish, Panamanians begin to focus on carnaval, which begins the weekend before Ash Wednesday, and as such, the date changes from calender year-to-year.

¡Feliz Navidad! While in Panama, have a SAFE and Happy Holiday.

A boot-shaped peninsula sticks out into the Bay of Panama, and this is where you’ll find The Casco Viejo. The Casco Viejo is a very old section of Panama City, built after Panama Viejo was destroyed in 1671. I had always thought that the the pirate Henry Morgan destroyed Panama City. But one day while in Panama City, I was watching a local TV station and a reporter interviewed a historian at Panama Viejo. She said that the Spaniards burned the city to keep it from the pirates, and many of them were kidnapped and held for ransom.

At the end of this historic area is a large seawall near the French Embassy. When the tide is low, you’ll see kids down below looking for shellfish. I’ve gone out there a time or two myself. This is also near the San Felipe District where there’s a fish market. You’ll know when you’re close because of the smell, and the large black birds.

For more pictures, please visit the Casco Viejo Gallery under PAGES.

The Casco Viejo and seawall

Seawall stairs

Fish market near The Casco Viejo