The Lost Paradise of Panamá

Castillo de San Lorenzo, or Fort San Lorenzo, is one of those great places to visit that’s not too far off the beaten path. It’s located on the other side of the massive Gatun Locks near a former Canal Zone fort now known simply as Sherman. Many US servicemen are familiar with the Jungle Operations Training Center that was located here for decades. Although there’s a fairly decent road that goes all the way to the national monument, because of its location, not as many people venture this way. Most tend to go to Portobello near Colon.

Aerial view of Castillo San Lorenzo

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The Panama Canal, The Casco Viejo, and Panama Viejo are not the only tourist attractions on the isthmus. Panama also attracts large numbers of adventurers seeking excitement surfing, or experiencing the jungle up close and personal on an eco-tour. Those who are on a shoestring budget or want to rough it will bring their own gear and campout. These are all great ways to explore Panama.

Jungle trail

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It was a strange couple of days on the other side of the Bridge of the Americas. Well, maybe not so strange since it was in Panama and one tries to get used to strange.  But even though you get used to seeing some pretty weird things, some days can stick out. Every day can be adventurous. You never know what you might see. And at the start of this day, I didn’t know it would begin with Ché, and within 48 hours also include Noriega and Bin Laden.

I was staying with friends in the Chapala area and running some errands, mainly between Arraijan and La Chorerra.  I decided to use the local buses known as diablos rojos. I waited at a nearby bus stop, and as the red devil rumbled to a crawl I swung myself aboard. Oftentimes a young entrepreneur gets on the bus to sell condoms (before and during carnaval), gum, drinks, food, or religion. They’ll ride for a few bus stops, tolerated by the driver.

On this morning it was all Che and religion. I wasn’t surprised to see something of Che Guevara, the former Argentine doctor and rebel who was killed in Bolivia. As legends go, he had passed through Panama, even Casco Viejo. He had eaten at the Coca Cola Café, which is still pretty much the same and still serving good food. 

The man was the last to come onboard, not needing a seat. He was ready to tell us what he thought we needed to hear; and we had no way out. He walked up and down the aisle, ranting about this and that, and why we should believe in the Bible. I had no doubt that he believed as many do in Central America that it’s bad luck—and bad manners—not  to listen to someone when they are preaching religion—no matter what belief it is.

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The Panama Canal was started by the French and completed by the United States. But the Canal would not have been possible without the labor of thousands of workers from around the world. Tragically, due to harsh working conditions, yellow fever and malaria, thousands lost their lives. Some say their ghosts still exist, roaming the halls of Gorgas Hospital on Ancon Hill, or in the maintenance tunnels under the Canal. The complete history of what some call the Eighth Wonder of the World can be seen in a museum at the Miraflores Locks.

The Miraflores Locks, or Pacific side locks, are the first locks when traveling south to north, or from the Pacific to the Atlantic. This might sound strange, but keep in mind that Panama is “S” shaped with Costa Rica to the west, and Colombia to the east. It’s also close to Panama City and Balboa. Any taxi driver knows how to get there. Just be sure to verify the fare before leaving.

The museum is filled with artifacts and exhibits from the early days of the French when Panama was still only a province of Colombia, to when the US took over operations. First-time visitors are amazed at just how big the Canal is, and the engineering feats that were needed to complete it nearly a century ago.

Along with the numerous displays is an outdoor observation deck overlooking the Miraflores Locks. From here you have a bird’s eye view of the lock, the mules (the cars that pull the ships through the locks) the Canal, and of course, the ships. If you get hungry, there’s an onsite restaurant.

Miraflores is the most visited, but there’s a lot more to the Canal. If you have time, it’s well worth a visit to the Pedro Miguel Locks near Gamboa, and then the Madden Dam. On the Atlantic side you’ll find the massive Gatun Locks.

View of the Canal from the observation deck

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