One big change came in 2007 when the former Hotel Taboga was demolished, and there has yet to be a replacement. There was quite a bit of talk for a few years about condos and a marina, but so far nothing has materialized. The ruins of the old hotel are still here at Playa Restinga and El Morro. I can picture its former beauty in my mind. I’ll never forget. And I hear, literally, the peacocks, now hiding in the jungle, as they call to each other.

There are small huts on Restinga, up along the former Hotel Taboga wall. They can be rented for the day. And among the ruins are vendors that will cook or get you a cold cerveza. In-between cooking corvina or renting out umbrellas and chairs, they play cards and dominos.

A couple of places to stay, (and there are others) are the Vereda Tropical and Cerrito Tropical. I have stayed at both and they are fine. On this last trip I met the expat owner/ operator of the Agua Sol Villa. My family and I had dinner over Taboga Bay, and Ted told us about the five rooms he has available. It’s a beautiful place in an ideal location.

I finally saw, after I don’t know how many excursions to Taboga, the elusive neon green and black dart frog. I spotted it on a section of PVC pipe just as I started up the jungle trail to The Three Crosses, and I was able to get a picture before it hopped into the dark foliage.

We were a little bewildered on the far side of Taboga. I took the wrong trail and we came out on the Wild Life Refuge side and discovered where the pelicans nest. It was quite a nesting area. And then another first. I met a traveler off of the beaten path. A Scotsman from Edinburgh who liked the myriad of butterflies that call Taboga home. I pointed the way for him to find The Three Crosses, the gravesite of three pirates who were killed during one of many attacks over the centuries.

Things are changing on little Isla Taboga. There was a time when you never saw a car. Now there are several small trucks, vans, golf carts and at least one noisy moped. As we found out when we crossed over the top of Taboga, the daily flights out to the Pearl Islands screech by very close. All the same, if you are in the area, I would highly recommend the trip. The island is beautiful, and it has a colorful history.

Isla Taboga — Island of Flowers

You may need to ask for directions once you arrive in Natá. The church is located several blocks off of the Interamericana in a residential neighborhood. There is also a nice small park across from the church. The building has been restored over the years, but much of the original construction can still be seen. Inside you will find many intricately carved alters. You will see wooden faces all around, and fruits and flowers carved into ornate columns. There’s even what appears to be a feathered serpent, something I thought was a crocodile at first until I looked closer. This is definitely one of those places where you could spend all day exploring.

Church of Natá

But there are about two-thousand varieties of palm. One of those is the memorable black palm. On its trunk thousands of long, sharp needles grow straight out. It you simply brush by one, the needles will penetrate your shirt or pants, and embed in your skin. If you don’t get the broken barbs out, the area will fester and get infected rather quickly. Even dead black palms can be dangerous. If you step over a fallen one, you need to make sure you step as far over it as you can, or else the needles will go right through your boots. Typically while in the jungle you may only see a few black palm trees which you can easily avoid. Only once did I come across a small forest of black palms that I had to go through.  It was a nightmare of needles and I was pulling out barbs for days.

If you see this tree during your travels, it’s best to avoid it if possible.

Black Palms

On-board the USS Saipan; all smiles after a successful mission

I was a young Army Ranger who had been to Panama before for jungle training at the former Jungle Operations Training Center at Fort Sherman. When I had a chance to leave the Second Ranger Battalion for a small Airborne company in Panama, I took it. Although I completed jungle training and was awarded an unofficial “Jungle Expert” badge, I didn’t think my skills were up to par. I felt that a tour of duty in Central America would make me a better soldier. I arrived in October 1978. Less than a month later my unit was called upon to clean up the mass suicide at Jonestown, Guyana. It was originally thought to have been a terrorist attack. Only when there where boots on the ground did the full scale of what had happened come to light.

And now, less than a year later, Nicaragua was exploding.

It wasn’t a secret to us. There were many Nicaraguans living on the Isthmus, all trying to escape the dictator Somoza, the burning bodies around Lago Nicaragua, and the Sandinista Revolution. The Somoza family had long been known to be tyrants, from the father down to his sons Luis and Anastasio. In the past, the US had helped the Somoza’s with financial and military aid. But there was a new sheriff in town and President Carter was reluctant to bail out another Somoza. Anastasio’s brutality and that of the National Guard were legendary and could no longer be ignored. Even so, there were former US soldiers that had trained in special operations and were now working for Somoza as Soldiers of Fortune. Something we would have to undo later.

After Bill Stewart’s horrific public murder, it was clear that the Marines would not be going in to stop the revolution. As far as President Carter was concerned, the days of propping up dictators were over. He wasn’t inclined to help Anastasio Somoza, (and later the Shah of Iran who spent some time in exile on Contadora Island, Panama). In fact, the president wanted him out all together, as well as the US Embassy staff. In July, 1979, a small group of us went in to make sure that the mission was completed. It started off rather rocky when one of our own troops threw a grenade at us. Thankfully he hadn’t flipped off the safety clip after pulling the pin. The young sergeant that stopped him, (if he hadn’t, the mission may never have happened), was killed a few weeks after we returned. The story was that he had somehow accidentally shot himself while walking with another soldier on Venado beach and twirling a pistol.

Once we were back at Kobbe and Somoza was gone once and for all, as I’d drive to Panama City and cross over what was then called the Thatcher – Ferry Bridge, now the Bridge of the Americas, I’d see one of Somoza’s ships in Panama Bay. It was anchored there for a couple of weeks. I had always wondered three things. One, why did that National Guardsman shoot Bill Stewart and (out of camera view) Juan Espinoza? Did he really not know he was being filmed? Unlike the movie, Under Fire, where Gene Hackman plays the part of Stewart and is shot standing up, he was actually laying on the ground and shot in the head. That incident was the final straw and set in motion the ouster of Somoza.

Second, whatever happened to that National Guard soldier? He disappeared.

And third, what was on Somoza’s ship docked in Panama Bay? Probably a lot plunder. I have always wondered what happened to it all.

Somoza was not allowed to stay on US soil and he moved to Paraguay. A little over a year later he was assassinated. Danny Ortega took over the country—there was the Contra War, the Iran-Contra scandal, and finally in 1990, Violeta Chamorro, the widow of murdered journalist Joaquin Chamorro, was elected president. Currently, Danny Ortega is back in power, but Nicaragua is much different. Lake Nicaragua and Isla Ometepe, a place where bodies were burned, now has a wonderful organic farming school. One of Somoza’s former yachts rusts away near a beach. San Juan del Sur, a crescent-shaped bay on the Pacific side, is popular with foreigners.

Isla Ometepe

San Juan del Sur

In Leon you can tour what was previously a detention center where people were tortured. Now it’s called, The Museum of Myths and Legends. They display dummies in places where humans were once killed. It’s a grim reminder of some very dark days.

Torture cell inside The Museum of Myths and Legends

Leon, July 1979

In Juigalpa you’ll find a really neat archeology museum, along with some freaks of nature. Sometimes as you travel you come across bizarre things that you’re just not quite sure how to take. To the north is Esteli where a lot of fighting had taken place in the past.  It’s a large farming community, and they still find quite a bit of unexploded ordinance across the land.

Cyclops calf in Juigalpa

Esteli

The Atlantic side, Bluefields, Pearl Lagoon, and Awas where many indigenous Miskito Indians live, is a whole different isolated world. If you do travel to Nicaragua, get out of Managua as soon as possible. And like any place else, especially a foreign country, be aware of your surroundings.

Caribbean Coast

Aerial view of Castillo San Lorenzo

You can make a day trip out of it if you are staying in Panama City. Just be sure to leave early enough to drive to the Atlantic side. And also build in time if the locks are being used. You might have to wait for the swing bridge which is only open if there is no vessel traffic. The other option would be to stay at a hotel at the former Fort Davis or Fort Gulick. Hotel Melia would be a good option. You might want to get directions to San Lorenzo before heading to Sherman, although the site is not hard to find and only a few kilometers away. At the end of the road you will come out into a clearing at a point where the Chagres River and the Caribbean meet.  

Once you stand on the fort’s wall and gaze down over the Caribbean and the mighty Chagres, it’s easy to see why the Spanish built a garrison here. The surroundings that you will see look very much the same as they did when Columbus first visited the area in 1502. San Lorenzo itself wasn’t completed until the late 1500’s. In 1671 the privateer Henry Morgan captured the fort before marching across the isthmus and sacking Panama Viejo. He later had it destroyed, only to be rebuilt and refortified by the Spanish once again. It doesn’t take too much imagination as you walk among these old ruins to feel what life must have been like here so many centuries ago.

For more information please visit: Fort San Lorenzo.

I have always liked the Ft. Gulick area. It’s on the Colon side of the Gatun locks and near the shores of Gatun Lake. It’s also near another former CZ fort, Fort Davis. Although there are many things to see in the area if you make Hotel Melia your base for a few days, there is not as much tourism as on the Pacific side. Most travelers with only a few days of vacation time head off to the beaches or the Highlands. Colon is not exactly considered a destination point. It’s more well-known as being extremely dangerous. But thankfully Hotel Melia is several miles away from the Colon area. As with all travel to foreign countries you can always count on the unexpected happening. There might not be water pressure for a well-needed shower, or the AC might go out. Consider yourself lucky if that’s the worst of it.

Directly down the road from the hotel are the massive Gatun locks. I highly recommend visiting the area and the small town of Gatun. Then cross over the canal and head toward yet another former CZ fort, Ft. Sherman. This was where the old Jungle Operations Training Center used to be. A few kilometers farther on you will come to Ft. San Lorenzo, a former Spanish garrison. It’s overlooked by most tourists so don’t be surprised if you are the only one there.

Back on the Colon side turn off the road at Sabanitas and head toward Portobello. There you will find more Spanish forts, the ones that are most visited, as well as the Black Christ. I recommend staying out of Colon unescorted for safety reasons. There are other things you can do around the hotel such as ecotourism, hiking  and fishing. Even though now is the dry season, be prepared for rain, especially this year.

Jungle trail

For most that visit from the Far North for a week or two, using valuable vacation time—and money, it’s not enough time to properly acclimatize your body to your new surroundings. This is especially true if you plan on venturing off into the jungle, or anywhere else that is far away from an air-conditioned hotel room. But with a few basic tips learned the hard way, and common sense, you can have a more enjoyable adventure.

I’ve spent a lot of time in the jungle and along its beaches and mountains. My first visit to Panama was as an Airborne Ranger when I parachuted into high elephant grass onto a drop zone near Gatun. Since then, I’ve lived in Panama a couple of times and have returned often to visit.

Travel guide books are informative up to a point. They are, however, severely lacking in detailed, must-know information. Yes, the jungle is very beautiful and it’s sometimes described by travel writers as a cathedral. From a distance, I agree. As I flew over the Darien for example, what I saw was lush and brimming with life. But keep in mind that even the Garden of Eden had a snake problem. Once you are physically on the ground in the jungle, you might refer to it as a green hell. In the same vein, beaches are sandy and the water is definitely inviting. There are, once again, some things to be cautious of.

Here are just a few basic things to keep in mind. These are primarily meant for those who have very little or no experience with being near or in a jungle environment, or who have never camped out or roamed a desolate Caribbean or Pacific beach in Central America.    

The Jungle can be quite foreboding when you first enter it. The double and triple canopy blocks out much of the sunlight. Unlike some movies you may have seen, don’t expect to hear a lot of animal sounds. You will, on occasion, but not often. It will be hot and very humid. If you are there in the rainy season, April to mid-December, expect several short but powerful rainstorms throughout the day and night. On the Caribbean side expect almost twice as much. Because of this, clothing is very important. Light, loose-fitting clothing that allows you to climb over fallen trees works best. Bring something that’s made from cotton or a cotton-nylon fabric. It also dries out quicker. Definitely stay away from your Blue Jeans.

The main goal with clothing is to protect as much of your skin as possible, so no shorts or short sleeves in the jungle. The lion, or in Panama’s case, the jaguar, is not the king of the jungle. The mighty mosquito is, and it will wreak havoc on any exposed skin. Especially if it has been cut or scratched by one the trillions of thorns that surround you. And once you get bit you’ll want to scratch and that could cause more bleeding. So, the rule of thumb, protect all exposed skin as much as possible in the effort to protect it from scratches and insect bites. You don’t need gloves, although some people wear them. I don’t. And you don’t need netting over your hat that hangs down over your neck. Some do, but I never found it that useful. Instead, definitely wear a good floppy hat to protect your head and keep insects out of your hair. Around your neck wear a large bandana. This will help protect it, and you can use it to wipe off sweat.

Underwear is generally not a good idea in a hot, humid, sticky, wet jungle environment. It becomes an extra piece of clothing that remains soaked and stuck to your skin the whole time you are outdoors. If you must wear underwear, then make sure it’s boxer shorts only. Do not wear briefs under any circumstances. If you do, after a few hours of walking and sweating, you will regret it. I’ve seen more than one person stop and cut their briefs off before continuing. T-shirts are okay if you wear one with a rounded collar as it helps protect the neck a little more. You don’t need a whole T-shirt, just the upper part, and then a lightweight, long-sleeved cotton shirt over it. Extra T-shirts are also nice to wear once you’ve made camp and settle into your hammock and mosquito netting for the night.

Socks are another option. Like underwear, socks will remain soaked and stuck to your skin the whole time you are in the jungle. Not only with sweat, but you will undoubtedly cross over unexpected streams or even swampy areas.

Good boots are a necessity. They don’t have to be the old GI issued Jungle Boot, but I’ll use that as an example. It has canvas sides, so it dries easier than all leather. It also has what is called the “Panama sole.” These are wide angled lugs that help with climbing muddy hillsides, instead of the typical Vibram sole that has many small openings that will quickly get clogged. You will see the locals walking through the jungle completely barefoot or with only thin leather sandals. Keep in mind that they’ve been doing this since they could walk and their feet are thick and callused.

For spending one night or several in the jungle, there are a few options to help you through a more comfortable evening that will be filled with insects and roving critters. I highly recommend an all-in-one jungle hammock that is complete with mosquito netting and a covering to protect from heavy rain. These are available at outdoor stores or Army Surplus stores and are easy to set-up. If not, a good nylon hammock will suffice, along with a poncho (a large shower curtain will also work) to cover the top. You can cut and fashion long fern stems to help keep the poncho spread over the hammock. With this method, also bring mosquito netting that covers your hammock and hangs down to the ground. Before it gets dark store all of your gear under your hammock, and keep with you what you might need such as water, a bite to eat, flashlight, etc.

The hundreds of miles of beaches and islands have different challenges for those who camp or wander the shoreline. At night the sand fleas come out. I highly recommend slipping on some pants before going on an evening stroll. During the day it’s not much of a problem at all. When walking on the beach I almost always wear sandals. There are too many “stingy thingies” on the sand, just under the sand, or just under the water that can hurt you. I saw a young woman get stung with the barb of a devil ray at Restinga Beach on Isla Taboga. The tide was out and the ray was just under a few inches of water when she stepped on top of it. When on the beach and exposed to the sun use a lot of sunscreen. The sun rays in the tropics are very strong and you may not feel it right away. So please, don’t try to get the perfect tan all in one day. Otherwise you’ll return home looking like a lobster.

I was staying with friends in the Chapala area and running some errands, mainly between Arraijan and La Chorerra.  I decided to use the local buses known as diablos rojos. I waited at a nearby bus stop, and as the red devil rumbled to a crawl I swung myself aboard. Oftentimes a young entrepreneur gets on the bus to sell condoms (before and during carnaval), gum, drinks, food, or religion. They’ll ride for a few bus stops, tolerated by the driver.

On this morning it was all Che and religion. I wasn’t surprised to see something of Che Guevara, the former Argentine doctor and rebel who was killed in Bolivia. As legends go, he had passed through Panama, even Casco Viejo. He had eaten at the Coca Cola Café, which is still pretty much the same and still serving good food. 

The man was the last to come onboard, not needing a seat. He was ready to tell us what he thought we needed to hear; and we had no way out. He walked up and down the aisle, ranting about this and that, and why we should believe in the Bible. I had no doubt that he believed as many do in Central America that it’s bad luck—and bad manners—not  to listen to someone when they are preaching religion—no matter what belief it is.

The young man was wearing a belt buckle. And not just any belt buckle. It was huge. Comparable to what you might see a cowboy wearing in the states while at a rodeo. It was obvious that the man was proud of his buckle and he wanted it to be noticed. On the buckle was an engraving of Che Guevara, the image of which we have all seen. The original picture was taken by Alberto Korda while Che was attending a funeral. He’s wearing a beret with a star on it and his hair is hanging down. That image is copyright protected and since Che’s death has been produced worldwide on T-shirts, coffee mugs, key chains and now as I saw… belt buckles. Someone had further enhanced the engraving by painting over it with bright colors. As this young man yelled out Bible verses, I wondered if he knew anything about Guevara.

I know his image is popular. And I know that to many he represents what being a rebel is all about. I’ve seen tourists buy Guevara T-shirts and then proudly walk down the sidewalk showing them off as if to say, “Hey, look at me, I’m a rebel like Che.”

There are some that to this day believe Che was a hero. A martyr. I am not one of them. I am, however, amazed how little many people know about him, and will defend his actions. I knew men from my ranger days that had been a part of Special Forces, Eighth Group (later Seventh Group) that had trained Bolivian Rangers and eventually caught Che and his followers. I’ve read his diaries and other writings. I mention this to show that I have studied the man, his politics, and his beliefs. But at the same time, I understand why his image is as popular as ever, especially in the Americas.

The man with the Che belt buckle finished what he had to say, pulled off his hat, and made the rounds. In actuality we were getting close to his bus stop. I watched as just about everyone (these are people with little to no disposable income) dropped nickels, dimes, and even some quarters into his waiting hat. When the entrepreneur stuck his field expedient offering plate under my nose, I shook my head no. He lingered there for a moment, but then moved on.

I didn’t think too much about it until a couple of days later. I was looking for an Internet café, one that I had used in the past that was owned by a Chinese – Panamanian family. I found a different one after searching, but it was closed with people waiting; even the hours posted showed that it should have been open. No surprises there. I went next door and got a bite to eat. As I finished an empanada and sipped thick, rich coffee, I noticed the sidewalk clear. A few minutes later I was inside the Internet café and waiting to pay. As I waited my turn, a woman loudly entered the open door, and as I turned to look at her, she made a beeline straight toward me. She was carrying religious pamphlets and waved them like a fan back and forth. She asked me to buy one; it was only $1.25. I shook my head no. She tried again and got the same result. Then she dropped the price to $1.00. I shook my head but she persisted. I told her no, and with that she turned and yelled to no one in particular that I would die. She went back out the door and I could hear her ranting by the lottery ladies. Oh well, I thought. At the same time it reminded me about the guy on the bus with the Che belt buckle and Bible.

As I waited in line to sign-up I noticed a large framed photograph on the wall behind the desk. It was Tony Noriega, all dressed up in his general’s uniform when he was the commander of the PDF (Panama Defense Force). There he was, good ‘ol cara de piña, (pineapple face), all smiles before the 1989 invasion. It wasn’t surprising, really, to see his picture displayed so prominently in a place of business. After all, he is Panamanian and was the leader (dictator) of the country at one time. Many hated him, but there were others that supported him. He killed, but he never killed as many as Che was responsible for. He was a gangster, but not as bad as some others who were in power back then, or even now. But he put himself in the cross hairs of the US when the security of the Canal came into question. Little Tony ran Panama like Alphonse Capone. He was the Mouse that Roared and the US heard him and right or wrong, did something about it. I knew people that supported Noriega because they believed that he showed his defiance when he stood up to the “Colossus of the North.” And they didn’t like how Panama as a sovereign nation was invaded just to get one man and his inner crew. Most Panamanians don’t ever want to see him step foot back on their soil. Even so, I understand why some display his picture and will do so for years. Some do it just to be different from everyone else. Maybe it’s that rebel inside them.

But then I noticed another photograph, and this one really struck. It was also framed and about the same size as the Noriega picture. I certainly wasn’t prepared for it. It was a picture of Bin Laden. I know that Panama is a fairly tolerant society when it comes to religion. In Panama City for example, you will find a wide variety of churches, mostly Catholic, as well as synagogues and mosques. Even so, I really had to wonder why the owner of this Internet café (who most certainly had to know, and maybe even approved), allowed a photograph of Bin Laden on the wall. The picture of Noriega now seemed to take on a different significance.  Was this the expression of someone who was doing it for shock value? Did they do it because it was the exact opposite of what most reasonable people believed? Did they do it because they were anti-American and against anything America thought or stood for? Maybe they had lost a loved one during the invasion over twenty years ago.

It was time to pay and I asked for just thirty minutes instead of an hour. I dropped two quarters on the desk and moved to my assigned station. I sat down on a plastic chair with the back broken off and signed in. I needed to check a few things before heading off to Isla Taboga. As I logged in I found myself inexplicably turning my head to the left, toward the pictures of Noriega and Bin Laden. It was like driving by a horrendous car accident where you tell yourself, “Don’t look, don’t look,” but at the last second you can’t help yourself and you do look, and then you wish you hadn’t.

I checked what I needed to under the perpetual gaze of two notorious criminals, and every now and then I glanced back. I was done within fifteen minutes, logged off and walked out the door. My “friend” with the pamphlets shot me a look as I walked by. Before I turned a corner and headed down a side street I could feel eyes boring into my back.

Tomorrow’s another day…

The Miraflores Locks, or Pacific side locks, are the first locks when traveling south to north, or from the Pacific to the Atlantic. This might sound strange, but keep in mind that Panama is “S” shaped with Costa Rica to the west, and Colombia to the east. It’s also close to Panama City and Balboa. Any taxi driver knows how to get there. Just be sure to verify the fare before leaving.

The museum is filled with artifacts and exhibits from the early days of the French when Panama was still only a province of Colombia, to when the US took over operations. First-time visitors are amazed at just how big the Canal is, and the engineering feats that were needed to complete it nearly a century ago.

Along with the numerous displays is an outdoor observation deck overlooking the Miraflores Locks. From here you have a bird’s eye view of the lock, the mules (the cars that pull the ships through the locks) the Canal, and of course, the ships. If you get hungry, there’s an onsite restaurant.

Miraflores is the most visited, but there’s a lot more to the Canal. If you have time, it’s well worth a visit to the Pedro Miguel Locks near Gamboa, and then the Madden Dam. On the Atlantic side you’ll find the massive Gatun Locks.

View of the Canal from the observation deck

Miraflores Museum entrance

Map overview of the Canal

French Odyssey plaque

Workers from around the world

Worker’s plaque

Heroes of the Canal plaque

Surveyor

Steam powered digging

Laying track

Model of an old boat dredge

Miraflores Locks

Mule

View of two ships in the locks from the obseravtion deck